The Telegraph 2024-11-07 12:16:47


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Burglars with a nose for fine wine have stolen €60,000 (£50,000) in bottles from the cellar of a Paris restaurant in the latest theft to rock the French capital.

More than 750 bottles of wine were stolen this month in the dead of the night from the discreet, unnamed Paris eatery, which serves traditional French cuisine alongside a fine wine list, according to local media reports.

The restaurant’s cellar, located in the heart of the capital, contained various vintages and grand crus, some of which are on sale for €2,000 a bottle.

An ‘increase in thefts’

Jérôme Baudouin, editor-in-chief of La Revue du vin de France, said that this year had been a “bad vintage” for fine wine thefts.

“For the last five or six years, there has been an increase in thefts,” he told Le Parisien. “The price of wine, particularly Burgundy, has risen considerably. And that attracts criminals.”

Citing the example of a bottle of Bourgogne Premier Cru, Mr Baudouin said that while 10 years ago it was worth €50, it can now cost as much as €400, making it appealing for thieves to “load 20 or 30 cases in the boot of the car…and off [they] go”.

80 bottles stolen

The Parisian world of wine was shocked in January when thieves targeted the Michelin-starred Tour d’Argent, which overlooks the Seine and has the largest collection of any restaurant in the country.

In a surgical strike, burglars stole 80 bottles of its finest vintages, including Romanée-Conti, the legendary Burgundy that can fetch tens of thousands of euros.

The total value of the theft, reportedly committed without a break-in and only recorded during an inventory, surpassed €1.5 million.

A ‘parallel market’

In 2019, more than 150 bottles worth an estimated €400,000 were stolen from the cellar of the Michelin-starred restaurant Maison Rostang, in the 17th arrondissement of Paris.

In that case, burglars took advantage of work being carried out on the restaurant, located near the Champs-Élysées, to break in discreetly after digging a hole in a wall of around 50cm in diameter.

The culprits are often specialist thieves who sell on a “parallel market”, according to experts, while some thefts are believed to be inside jobs.

‘Cannot be sold’

“Most often, thefts involve wines with a high speculative value that are numbered. A stolen Romanée Conti or Petrus cannot be sold on the legal market,” said Aude Legrand, vice-president of a professional wine merchants’ union.

“In the case of grand crus, you could compare it to the art market. It’s all very well to have a stolen Picasso, but you still have to know who to sell it to,” she told Le Parisien, adding that wine merchants are “very careful about where bottles come from”.

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